Paarl needs reinvention to regain former glory
The Cape winelands have a status leaderboard of appellations, with Constantia claiming antiquity and exclusivity. Over the years, urban development has constrained vineyard space, making supply scarce and contributing to the region’s exclusivity. Many properties in Constantia date back to the 17th century, earning the region its reputation for antiquity.
Stellenbosch is considered the heartland of the wine industry, with a range of varieties that yields fine wines. The region’s charm is reminiscent of a small student town, but it also faces challenges like traffic congestion and parking problems.
Paarl’s Claim to Fame
Paarl, on the other hand, was once the headquarters of the wine industry, with KWV as the arbiter of all things vinous. Although its presence still remains, the town is now left with a vacuum where the company’s influence once dominated. Paarl needs reinvention to restore its former glory.
The region has a plethora of superb wine properties, but it lacks the charm of Stellenbosch. However, with great vineyards, insightful proprietors, and ambitious winemakers, Paarl has the potential to redefine itself.
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A Prospective Example
Brookdale, a former rundown grape farm, is an example of how Paarl can be reinvented. The property, nestled against the Klein Drakenstein Mountains, has altitude and multiple aspects, making it an ideal location for vineyards. Tim Rudd, an Englishman, saw the potential of the property about 10 years ago and invested in it.
Rudd appointed Duncan Savage as his technical consultant, Jaco Engelbrecht as his viticultural adviser, and Kiara Scott Farmer as cellarmaster. The property has since produced exceptional wines, with Farmer filling the Brookdale trophy cabinet with awards.
In 2024, Farmer left Brookdale to join Hazendal, and Xander Sadie, who had been working with Pieter Walser at Blankbottle, took over the cellar. The Brookdale wines from the 2025 vintage onwards have the Sadie stamp on them.
The Brookdale and Mason Road wines are highly recommended. The former are seriously conceived products that express the unique characteristics of the property, while the latter are from younger vines, have no visible oak, and are intended to deliver accessible drinking pleasure. Among the Brookdale range, the Old Vine Chenin is a standout, with extraordinary intensity and great length.
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The Bradbourne white blend is also notable, made from a combination of grenache blanc, palomino, vermentino, marsanne, and roussanne. The 2025 Field Blend is a striking red wine, with a mouthfeel and flavor profile reminiscent of the Douro region.
A Regional Renaissance
Brookdale boasts luxurious accommodation, a fine dining bistro, and walking trails, making it an ideal destination for wine tourists. If Paarl can replicate this model, the region may be able to jump-start a renaissance and restore its former glory.
Paarl’s wine industry is in need of a new approach. The region has the potential to redefine itself, with a focus on great vineyards, insightful proprietors, and ambitious winemakers.
